![]() ![]() I will give more info on the project when I have listed all the things I need it to do. I started looking at ways to do more with less pins and shift registers was already in my head, but then read about I2C. Reason I ask since I want to add quite a lot of stuff to this project I'm designing - in my head still. Can I.no wait maybe not me alone, but rather is it possible to build a display unit of ten 7-segment displays that uses I2C? I suppose one will have to use a specific I2C chip - I think I am reaching in a pot I should rather leave to the one's who actually know electronics. I did some light skim reading last night on shift registers, and also SPI, and I2C. That sounds like the Oracle Sales Analyser I am starting to use at work - any analysis is possible in probably 20 different ways. In this case, maybe common cathode would be better - then the arduino could drive the 7 anode segments, and a ULN2803 (or NPN transistors) could drive the cathode low to enable the segments. While that is displaying, shift out the next digit's segmets, anode off, enable the shift register output, drive the next anode. drive the Load Clock to move the data from the shift-in register to the parallel out register) & drive the anode. You could shift out the segments, enable the shift register output (i.e. Then use a shift register and walk a 0 (or 1, depending on how you turn the anode current on) across it to enable the digits 1 by 1. I would drive the 7 segments from the arduino, current limited to 20mA or less. Update: I figured out how to mix colors, however I still have a question.You can get 10 single digits, or find units that have multiple digits.Įither way, you will need to come up with a way to create 17 control pins.ħ that will determine which segment turns on, wired to all the segments in parallel, and 10 to select which digit is enabled, wired to the separate anode lines per digit (there are usually 2 common anodes per digit). Pin 13 has an LED connected on most Arduino boards:ĭigitalWrite(9, LOW) // Cyan (Light Blue)ĭigitalWrite(8, LOW) // Magenta (purple) initialize the digital pin as an output. ![]() This example code is in the public domain. Turns on an LED on for one second, then off for one second, repeatedly. May need to take these RGB LED's back if they are too much of a hassle. This is the spec sheet for the common anode RGB LED:īe nice, I'm a noob, and far from an electrical engineer, but I've gotten this to work up to this point. ![]() So what is the difference? Do I need to apply voltage to the "ground" pin on the common anode RGB LED? Again I am using the DIGITAL only pins specifically 7, 4, and 2, or 13, 12 and 8. I already have the DIGITAL only pins working with the common cathode RGB LED. I am planning on maxing out my arduino and using both digital and PWM pins. Long story short, the wiring for the 2 do not seem to work the same, and all of the info I am finding points to using PWM pins for common anode rgb LED's. I thought, yay, this looks exactly like the common cathode RGB LED that came in my kit, I'll take 3. I got so antsy to want to control more than one RGB LED, that I went to radio shack and saw they had a "full color" led. I am playing with the make arduino starter kit I got in the last week like crazy. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |